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<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0"><tr><td class="t_f" id="postmessage_102483"> <br /> <span style="display:none">1 j) l( e5 s% s r/ q0 B</span> 一直记得在南疆的那次旅行，偶遇帕米尔高原上的一场塔吉克族的婚礼。<font class="jammer">% l. L2 y$ ~; ?- o</font><br /> 那个夜晚，我们三个汉族的女人，挤在一堆少数民族中间，和他们一起载歌载舞到凌晨。第二天和当地人一起盘着腿，吃一碗手抓羊肉，看新娘穿衣打扮，听阿訇念念有词着古兰经....<font class="jammer">4 t' N+ x1 O$ k( s" ?3 s</font><br /> 每次念及，脑海里便浮现那些热情灿烂的笑脸。帕米尔高原，因为那一场婚礼，留给我的记忆异常的美好。<font class="jammer">7 S( I a3 L$ }</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">+ t q2 U4 u7 A. P4 i</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/165913zxfxs3sq1ax1xw61.jpg" alt="20170201234531048441487_910.jpg" title="20170201234531048441487_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><br /> <span style="display:none">9 A% r0 C# R* N' `% d9 s</span><font class="jammer">* L& u: S! t3 |# M</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">+ g9 f9 p3 k3 W8 f* P</span><br /> <span style="display:none">& W7 k' M& q$ g' P% k9 ?" W7 j</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/165919j4dz32d9ii8dkhuc.jpg" alt="20170201234609251704783_910.jpg" title="20170201234609251704783_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">; o" R8 {9 \$ ]" g6 w9 K& D</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">" J3 }( [' |6 A- F) S</span> 出镜/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">; j/ n& h7 S- E# L</span> 所以当某一日刘哥说，过几天<a href="http://www.dali8.net/" target="_blank" class="relatedlink">大理</a>有一场<a href="http://www.dali8.net/" target="_blank" class="relatedlink">白族</a>婚礼，你来不来？来，不就2400公里么～～如此任性，打着飞的就去了。<font class="jammer">' u- ^1 B2 _- h6 N( S</font><br /> 那夜我住在大理桃源人家海景别院，一个人的双人床上，关了灯没舍得拉窗帘，如白昼般的月光，星星点点的洒在窗外的洱海上，有一些恍惚，像是一场梦。<br /> <span style="display:none">% |7 X: ]8 l I# {1 u/ F2 A2 C</span> 在大理逛了几天，终于等来了那场白族婚礼。几乎整个桃园村的人都来了，流水席如此的壮观。<font class="jammer"># X& F; F/ T+ o( E% ?</font><br /> 满眼白族盛装的女人们，说着我听不懂的语言，我像是从一场梦，到了另一场梦。<font class="jammer">) ?9 Y; R# j" Q: E</font><br /> <font class="jammer">& K) |! a5 g# N) P3 {$ ]# D8 T( h</font><br /> <div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/165939bswb69kqkxzvwl33.jpg" alt="20170201234613579648024_910.jpg" title="20170201234613579648024_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">* q) P7 B5 H% h</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">* X5 y" s& j7 U% j1 O5 R</span> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none"> p* _$ x0 A$ v- S/ e</span><br /> <span style="display:none">" w% V4 O' @; ~3 `</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/165957o2h9bnioobz9992i.jpg" alt="20170201234624048899834_910.jpg" title="20170201234624048899834_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">* @2 r$ o5 q; s2 A</font><br /> <font class="jammer">0 i' d4 E( n# u+ w( v9 T) N# C</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">: l8 L) X9 x: F2 k9 q</span><font class="jammer">" F; o& @4 W6 R, [" m/ q" M</font><br /> <div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170010w25uamdgu8yz50m0.jpg" alt="20170201234512188860487_910.jpg" title="20170201234512188860487_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><br /> <span style="display:none">8 _1 l A3 p# ]4 @. e</span><font class="jammer">7 v) a n, ^+ Q3 `8 `) H8 R. S' ~" j- E( a</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">: t3 |! k7 E0 h/ d6 t</span> 似乎很多少数民族的婚礼，都是从跳舞开始的。<font class="jammer">1 }1 r8 ^; L; o4 J4 h</font><br /> 在婚礼的前一天，村里人都过来帮忙，杀猪的，洗菜的，每个人都有分工。我从海舌公园看完日落，回到桃源村已经天黑了，一到村口便听到喜庆的音乐声。走进婚礼人家一看，院子里挤满了人，许多红衣的白族女子在跳舞，气氛好热烈。<font class="jammer">% n! U: Z4 I; Y& J# L/ [+ t</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">3 ~5 B0 D5 U' ]! z* y: \! j</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170019hb73333o33g3g31k.jpg" alt="20170201234601095128072_910.jpg" title="20170201234601095128072_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">$ C& ~0 G+ c u5 d</font><br /> <font class="jammer">3 w( J) I/ x8 F</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">6 K8 ~8 C! C' U/ c' Y</span> 找了个位置坐着，一会儿便有个大哥端了很多碗过来，笑嘻嘻的问我：要不要来一碗饵丝？厚着脸皮领了一碗，刚好没吃晚饭。<br /> <span style="display:none">7 G2 z" [4 a9 W* ?5 Y, w! U</span> 桌子上三三两两都是陌生人，对面的大哥也是游客，显然和我一样，是巡着音乐声闯进来的。我们聊着大理，聊着洱海，聊着白族姑娘，一不小心就把一碗饵丝吃了个底朝天。<font class="jammer">" O' q% j- n9 \& @5 ^</font><br /> 当地人和我们介绍着明天婚礼的细节，于是知道了明天结婚的是桃源人家的二公子，新娘才二十岁，最厉害的是，新娘的妈妈是79年的!<br /> <span style="display:none">7 {: n- a2 ^, g7 y3 n- J' N/ M! R</span><br /> <span style="display:none">* b3 s+ C6 W1 H5 V</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170045x1n8t6kwh4htf176.jpg" alt="20170201234625970798381_910.jpg" title="20170201234625970798381_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><br /> <span style="display:none">1 t- S3 J7 c8 |5 r</span><br /> <span style="display:none">& B8 c" i) ^, A</span> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">! ~3 {' t2 e* T</span> 在北上广，有些79年的女人，也许还没有结婚，而新娘的妈妈居然嫁女儿了。村民和我说，这里结婚普遍很早，女孩子都是二十出头，找一个村里的小伙子就嫁了。<font class="jammer">: l5 F: i8 V* u6 m</font><br /> 多么简单和美好。在不谙世事的年纪，遇一个人，在一个阳光灿烂的小村庄里，结婚生子，过简简单单的人生。没有城市那么多套路，纠结，反复。<font class="jammer"># _# ^# P/ q1 F; W</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">+ a4 C8 R' `( \( e) v3 N. L1 e</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170122tpbeb1nb7df4daxx.jpg" alt="20170201234517798576900_910.jpg" title="20170201234517798576900_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">4 S9 K3 h6 \6 u</font><br /> <font class="jammer"> k/ A* z; R" Y- z: F7 Y</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">/ G2 l/ P4 _5 T# ~! y</span> 婚礼的第二天，我早早的披衣起床，站在桃园人家海景别院的阳台上，对着洱海金黄的日出，内心柔软。下楼吃了早饭后，便又去了那家婚礼的人家。<font class="jammer">" x; j8 M+ a o' b; e</font><br /> 每个人脸上都微笑着。在屋角，看到村里的人们都提着几个塑料袋在打菜。上前一问才知道，是给家里不能来喜宴的人带回去的。一脸盘的荤菜素菜，被红红绿绿的塑料袋带走。<font class="jammer">! b; Z' D/ E) p6 w+ O</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">) X1 Z- t7 w6 e</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170211dy8k2px0b2bukupy.jpg" alt="20170201234523688969373_910.jpg" title="20170201234523688969373_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">8 M5 F+ g9 {8 E. r! O* V G</font><br /> <font class="jammer">2 Y# G4 K9 E! r: X0 f. D7 k</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">' m; X8 E; k c' l8 q, C</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">7 S% `: P* x5 c( x% h t/ Z$ p& Z</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170219srv55yjk0hjgth1j.jpg" alt="20170201234559438264392_910.jpg" title="20170201234559438264392_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">4 b4 R. {: W- A. h3 ~</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">! ^7 k- R8 f u5 O; ^: N+ @3 G</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">. V/ P/ x* L' |& Y</font><br /> 走进院子，阳光下人们三三两两的闲坐着。老爷爷老奶奶一脸和蔼，让我想起我在天上的爷爷奶奶。<font class="jammer">' U; i8 i- V$ u) r9 X3 _</font><br /> 虽然语言不通，但我坐在阳光下看了他们很久。<font class="jammer">1 g! r; M1 H6 E; c8 j( s</font><br /> <font class="jammer">) _9 U( y9 f' L4 }( K) d</font><br /> <div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170241a1hiwh6ha4qh44ih.jpg" alt="20170201234527251567979_910.jpg" title="20170201234527251567979_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><br /> <span style="display:none">. [5 V6 B# }) k# R2 T: w</span><font class="jammer">2 ? o* f1 g8 U4 S) Q4 Q% W! m8 A</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">) t' f8 F! E% y' F; r3 w6 G</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">7 w( t8 d2 ?' Z0 ~4 c</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170253j55imf9rem0b0mcx.jpg" alt="20170201234525470529889_910.jpg" title="20170201234525470529889_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><br /> <span style="display:none">* B7 V- E1 g a: f- A" u" p- ?</span><br /> <span style="display:none">& [+ J; c5 u% k$ s2 Z' y- Z</span> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">- N: ?; Q& i, y8 d( ~+ W" m</span> 也有和我一样，一个人独坐的。在热热闹闹的环境里，显得格格不入。<br /> <span style="display:none">* W+ H6 ]: ?) @2 z0 Q/ X</span><font class="jammer">( P- ~( y7 q E9 O& D- a m</font><br /> <div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170302nfi4t0t8jewzf8lt.jpg" alt="20170201234534860433764_910.jpg" title="20170201234534860433764_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><br /> <span style="display:none"> R; Y. A9 c, j' u</span><br /> <span style="display:none">' [" B- `2 R- T+ Z# a</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">6 Z0 u) E5 O( Z0 y1 n ~5 c9 z- Y( s" U</font><br /> 特别好玩的是，村民们出的随喜，是放在一大盆米里端过来的。然后一位看起来书生模样的叔叔，在一个红红的名册本子上记下名字，和多少斤大米。<font class="jammer">; R4 u6 _# L" M; Q% H</font><br /> <font class="jammer">: w4 C! t0 t& N+ ?1 A, g# g, R</font><br /> <div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170324mk2bg5442a94dzgi.jpg" alt="20170201234606782572884_910.jpg" title="20170201234606782572884_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">) `6 l& l% w& D; I</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">; [; c5 C6 X+ A0 A" T; W</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">! G- z! N4 C) m$ q</font><br /> 继昨晚蹭了晚饭之后，继续蹭午饭。大理的生皮生肉和酸辣鱼是当地特色，等我一筷子夹下去放进嘴里，小伙伴才告诉我是生的猪肉。<br /> <span style="display:none">; Z) i8 T, `( w; a! g</span> 刘哥说，婚礼上用的猪肉都是现杀的，也能追溯到是哪一家养的猪。所以这猪肉是顶好的，才能放心的生吃。<font class="jammer">9 l, |! ~+ Y3 w9 m' q</font><br /> 可，可我还是咽不下去啊～<br /> <span style="display:none">: d4 }# Y5 M! I: l# N5 L8 t</span><br /> <span style="display:none">' p- j& s2 l0 `, q9 S</span><div align="center"> <ignore_js_op> <img src="data/attachment/forum/201711/07/170354dig6cw6nf51ci66u.jpg" alt="20170201234619751238985_910.jpg" title="20170201234619751238985_910.jpg" /> </ignore_js_op> </div><font class="jammer">) B% k x4 ^0 r* O' i</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">! }4 _. g( D4 \' P</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer"> }; U1 O4 u8 S% `6 S) u8 u</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">( @) d6 ^4 b6 e& t/ P</span><font class="jammer">8 V9 _5 \" ] s* h* d</font><br /> <font class="jammer"> J4 T% c* I8 u9 q( b6 Q1 ]</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">5 o: z1 O, t' |& O% D</font><br /> 午后，在举行了磕拜长辈等一大堆仪式之后，我跟着大部队出发去新娘家。浩浩荡荡的大部队啊，把桃源村小小的巷子都挤满了。<br /> <span style="display:none">& p/ L- z: c; ?3 W</span> 新郎家离新娘家也就一公里不到，走路过去就好。我们城市，婚车一排排的大排场，在这里是没有的。<br /> <span style="display:none">0 X; r) I- F! S& b8 U. j% d</span> 抬起头，万里无云的蓝天，和刺眼的阳光，都忘记我在冬天。<font class="jammer">3 w: U* E" Z7 h$ r! {# Z</font><br /> <font class="jammer">' K' z& ~$ O3 |9 Z K0 T</font><br /> <font class="jammer">6 T, W: Q i" A</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">6 ^' J" ]9 t( _& \! I U- p</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">5 o- b) t; o1 U9 j</font><br /> 到了新娘家，屋里屋外也是挤满了宾客。一楼的走廊里，放着旅行箱被子等陪嫁的物品。镜框里放在人民币，里面夹了张银行卡，用红纸贴了十万。想来现在少数民族的经济条件也挺好的。<font class="jammer">4 X! a" i; [) A, t7 A% T</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">3 w, o: \& Q$ f</span><font class="jammer">& W- _( O) f( Y8 [( W3 O1 f' U</font><br /> <font class="jammer">1 u0 @4 g9 t. t4 x</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">: p$ P" X q4 T- n" N. G+ c5 [</span> 有幸可以上到二楼，看新娘穿衣打扮，二楼是不允许男人上来的。伴娘们在楼梯台阶上放酒杯，说呆会要走二步喝一杯，让男人们一路喝上来。<br /> <span style="display:none">" u# ^$ z6 s% G# L3 O</span> 那个二十岁就出嫁的白族新娘，由长辈们梳妆打扮。新娘没有穿婚纱，一身喜庆的红衣。头上那巨大彩色的帽子，颠覆了我的想象力，如此的夸张。后面的长辫上也全部插满了彩色的花，女人们挤在一起，争先恐后的和新娘拍合影。<font class="jammer">+ F# _7 i8 `" F- M+ ~, ^+ v3 |: O</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">0 m; a. [4 u9 P' t7 O1 u" P: ]</span><font class="jammer">. S& _( j, s& k5 \) s</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">/ [; s4 ~! n- w6 z& @% }</span> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none"># z, Z3 n9 J; i$ Z6 ]/ K; o% ~' @5 |</span> 一双精致的手工绣花鞋，散发着传统精致的美。<br /> <span style="display:none">2 O" r1 L* V" X' @; Q$ i" _4 |</span><font class="jammer">) k; `& A8 |5 Q6 e. E# h" D" y' V4 Y</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">8 Q" Q% j# X$ D# C</span><br /> <span style="display:none"> V/ m9 j4 n# ?( z</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">2 k, r1 B" T9 V# \/ D</font><br /> 伴娘团的一群美女，浅笑嫣然，一个个都好美。雪白的肌肤，大大的眼睛，同作为女人，都觉得好养眼，我要是男人，就留在大理了!<font class="jammer">' P- l0 y9 }4 U8 @7 [</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">; v3 h, S# ]' z</span><br /> <span style="display:none">7 C" R4 J* m: o/ p7 s% i</span><font class="jammer"># g3 q* z+ G; u4 _; r( M* H. `</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">' e! F! r' M \; h* y% y4 X</font><br /> 在新郎和伴郎团突破重重难关后，新郎终于牵到了新娘的手。我在那样的气氛里，感受着喜悦。<font class="jammer">( X$ o3 X* j! n, D1 Q</font><br /> <font class="jammer">8 L6 c6 V; B, T</font><br /> <font class="jammer">+ w$ C' c- D1 h8 u; P</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none"># m N" N7 J9 W' l) w</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">5 W$ M5 y, z/ K2 t</font><br /> 令我惊讶的是，返程去往新郎家的路上，我跟在人群的后面。鞭炮断断续续，人们走走停停。<br /> <span style="display:none">0 V: E7 F& w' k7 A# p</span> 怎么停下来了呢？上前去一看，伴郎团在大街上围住新娘新郎，上演各种小游戏。这闹洞房，都在大街上闹的啊？<br /> <span style="display:none">* F+ m' C, f3 _3 }# g8 @! n' z: v</span><font class="jammer">/ K/ L2 b( w9 `& z# z9 G& K: ~</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">% _, _9 N1 t1 z6 H/ g! B</span><br /> <span style="display:none">0 }5 m: @3 a/ f5 ?$ k6 y+ a</span> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">! P' c1 J& e" z1 y2 m</font><br /> 我想上去看看都在玩什么损人游戏，可是人实在太多挤不上去。只听见不时的哄堂大笑，不时想要逃跑的新郎做着鬼脸～<br /> <span style="display:none">) E. N" W2 h* S% \5 U- E</span> 几乎全村的人都在这条路上了。情绪是会感染的，那一天，特别的快乐。此刻回想起来，都会微笑。<br /> <span style="display:none">6 x. X8 P9 d* l</span><font class="jammer">, k3 y3 l2 F8 P# u& l* B</font><br /> <font class="jammer">7 U1 ^; r3 H+ }7 X( _3 c</font><br /> <font class="jammer">5 d9 \0 X0 V: r! R. V, S8 J I' Q</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">- C" z0 c5 P; o</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">: Q7 g8 }4 o2 |* g9 c</span><font class="jammer">" [7 X0 c& d# A5 D+ k</font><br /> <font class="jammer">5 b0 O! X: H2 m& P' T</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">, F2 _# [) `) j3 Z</span> 到了新郎家，又是磕拜等各种仪式。被穿着民族服装的白族女人们迷住了，谋杀了我很多的相机快门。<font class="jammer">" g, h3 f- T2 U0 W& {' {6 F</font><br /> 晚饭依旧蹭的喜宴，喝了几杯青梅酒，很好下口，却容易醉。一桌子白族特色的菜，每一道都很好吃。<br /> <span style="display:none">7 P, j7 ]; z$ D( \$ h2 `. \</span><br /> <span style="display:none">9 Z7 b5 h# F: J1 E R</span><br /> <span style="display:none">$ [, m8 _5 W: R( g8 V</span><font class="jammer">2 h8 e ?( |: y</font><br /> 摄影/若有所思<font class="jammer">5 d0 b' l. e* K4 j</font><br /> 记得那晚，大亚遇见另一个玩民族音乐的朋友，喝酒聊音乐许久，渐渐天色渐黑，我看着刘哥，丸子，滑宾他们的笑脸。听着大亚开心的哼着歌，桃源人家的院子里，充斥着欢声笑语。<font class="jammer"> Y1 M7 ^5 U. M2 u3 o</font><br /> 有人喝多了，有人喝趴了，我微醺的笑脸，入了谁的眼？抬起头，洱海的月已经升的很高，听旁边的女人说：在这里美女叫金花，帅哥叫阿鹏。<font class="jammer">: I/ G- ]8 r1 C2 o/ G8 t</font><br /> 来来来，阿鹏，我们再走一个～～<font class="jammer">& J; R7 }9 K: S6 D# p6 T( h</font><br /> <font class="jammer">0 \2 B# Q9 J! e' W2 U n0 W</font><br /> <br /> <span style="display:none">2 [6 {, N+ z2 \% b% ^: ~" t8 U</span><br /> <span style="display:none">/ p: I5 z5 {0 {8 A# L+ r$ I3 G; l</span> 摄影/若有所思<br /> <span style="display:none">' s4 @+ G" U* M2 o</span> 深夜我回到桃源人家海景别院，在网络里分享着这一天的美好，快乐是需要分享的。一个人的房间，住了好几个夜晚，渐渐熟悉。我能听见自己哼着歌，对着镜子微笑。<font class="jammer">: q! |# w! H! l8 _9 h8 t8 p</font><br /> 晚安，洱海月。<font class="jammer">$ _4 I( F {7 O8 N/ p' k</font><br /> 关于作者：若有所思 <font class="jammer">* c- E) r0 N8 W1 p- d: k% G6 r</font><br /> 江南小女子一枚，>>天下常熟<<杂志特约主编，新浪江苏特约摄影师，阿兰若艺术生活掌柜...多个媒体撰稿人，旅行达人，旅行体验师<font class="jammer">7 Q# Q3 N3 M& {' H</font><br /> 新浪微博：若有所思CS 个人微信：bainian03 微信公众平台：旅行日志<br /> <span style="display:none">/ V. 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